Make
no mistake, the once humble hamburger has moved on. The formerly quite
basic meat sandwich has been deconstructed, parsed, analyzed, and, in
the minds of some culinary experts,
perfected.
This is all well and
good, even fascinating, but it has certainly created some pressure for
anyone making burgers at home. Am I doing it right? Have I thought
enough about my burger?
I have a reputation for making a
delicious burger. Which has always baffled me, because my burger is so
basic that it almost defies belief.
It all hinges on a single, secret ingredient.
Worcestershire sauce.
Yep, good old Lea & Perrins. Beyond that, my burger is almost indifferently prepared.
I
start with a mix of 80% lean to 20% fat. This is the kind of
standard-issue ground beef that you can find at any grocery store.
I allow the beef to come to room
temperature. Cooking cold meat is a bad idea — but trying for form cold
ground beef into hamburger patties is also no fun.
Then
I add a generous amount of salt and about half an ounce of
Worcestershire sauce per pound of ground beef in a mixing bowl. That's
it.
I
form the beef into soft patties that still have a bit of texture to
them (don't "overwork" the patties). I try to make sure they are of
uniform thickness, about an inch, with each patty about 5 inches across.
Roughly 6-8 ounces, max.
Then I grill 'em, over a gas or
charcoal flame, until they are medium rare. I start with a high flame
and finish up on a cooler section of the grill. (You can use a cast-iron
skillet, too, and a stove.)
The burgers go onto grilled buns, the kind you can get in the grocery store for a few bucks for a half dozen.
If
I'm feeling energetic, I'll make some homemade ketchup out of tomato
paste and vinegar, plus salt and pepper. I hit the burgers with some
freshly ground black pepper, and that's it. I don't care if people go
for lettuce, tomato, onion, pickles, whatever, but I prefer to go only
burger-bun-ketchup-on-the-side-for-dipping. Just add a nice glass of
Malbec.
For whatever reason, these burgers usually taste great. Leave out the Worcestershire sauce, however, and they aren't as tasty.
Worcestershire sauce is effectively an
ancient fish sauce (it contains fermented anchovies), so it adds a sort
of interesting depth of flavor that enhances the basic beefy taste of
what is after all an absurdly basic burger. Ultimately, the flavor is
sort of mysterious. But it's there.
I
didn't really plan this out, by the way. I just added some
Worcestershire sauce to my burger mix one day and listened to the praise
roll in. Previously, my burgers were unremarkable. But with a few
shakes of Lea & Perrins, I was suddenly a genius.
And now I'm giving up my secret.
(If
you don't want to use Lea & Perrins, there are plenty of
alternatives. Just go to Whole Foods or a gourmet food shop and ask.)